Best of Croatia.

Croatia's creative geography splits along a coast-and-capital axis. In Split, Veli Varoš climbs the hillside toward Marjan in stone steps and cat-occupied alleys, with espresso bars wedged between fishermen's cottages. In Zagreb, Martićeva runs six flat blocks of design studios and natural wine rooms, anchored by Cogito Coffee and Program Bar. Two scenes, same instinct: take the old bones, fill them with good coffee and natural wine, keep the volume low.