Best of Turkey.

Turkey's two creative neighborhoods talk past each other, and that is the point. In Istanbul, Yeldeğirmeni puts a five-story mural on a railway workers' block and tells nobody. In Ankara, Kavaklıdere fills the pavement tables of Tunalı Hilmi Caddesi by Tuesday afternoon and moves the crowd one street over to Bestekar Caddesi by Saturday night. One improvises on the wall, the other keeps a schedule. Both run on the same fuel: a walkable grid, a roaster on the corner, and music that starts after dark.