Yardbird
Michelin-starred yakitori on Wing Lok Street from Chef Matt Abergel, grilling beak-to-tail three-yellow chicken over binchotan since 2011. Order the chicken liver with sansho and tare, and expect the room to get loud as the night rolls on.
15 addresses where Sheung Wan / PoHo actually eats.
Start at Man Mo Dim Sum down the road from the temple for lunch, then Yardbird for yakitori later - book on Tock up to 14 days ahead and order the chicken liver. Drinks on Hollywood Road: CORKS for standing-room natural wine where the owner remembers your last glass, The Holywell's for considered cocktails on weeknights.
15 addresses across restaurants, bars, and cafes - all in Sheung Wan / PoHo.
Sheung Wan / PoHo eats range from Matt Abergel's binchotan chicken at Yardbird on Wing Lok to Vicky Lau's all-soy tasting menu at Mora. Add Pica Pica's counter tapas, Man Mo Dim Sum's truffle brie dumplings at 233 Hollywood Road, and An Choi's pho on Mercer Street, and you can cover four cuisines in four blocks.
Michelin-starred yakitori on Wing Lok Street from Chef Matt Abergel, grilling beak-to-tail three-yellow chicken over binchotan since 2011. Order the chicken liver with sansho and tare, and expect the room to get loud as the night rolls on.
One-Michelin-star restaurant from Chef Vicky Lau built entirely around soy, with all soy products made in-house for a tightly focused tasting menu. A 28-seat, Song dynasty-inspired room that feels like a private dining experience.
Plastic chairs, metal tables, and bare bulbs strung up to mimic a Saigon street stall, set behind a yellow façade on quiet Mercer Street. Lewis Dai and his wife Kay bake bánh mì twice daily and swap halibut into the Lã Vọng grilled fish, finished with house-fermented fish sauce.
Foie gras with fig jam gets folded into xiaolongbao here, alongside truffle brie dumplings and a kung fu crème brûlée, all handmade by Swiss-born chef Nicolas Elalouf. The wine list leans into Chinon and Saumur-Champigny, and the narrow room spills onto Hollywood Road, facing the antique shops.
Spanish tapas restaurant under Chef Edgar Sanuy, turning out produce-driven small plates around an open kitchen counter. Part of the Epicurean Group and one of the better seats in Sheung Wan for a long, wine-fuelled lunch.
Bars in Sheung Wan / PoHo split between Hollywood Road's polish and the side-street wine rooms: Bar Leone for a proper Italian aperitivo, The Holywell's for 21 seats of British cocktails, CORKS and La Cabane when you want a bottle and a stool on the pavement.
Behind a heavy wooden door with brass lettering on Shin Hing Street, 450-odd bottles from Scotland, Japan, Ireland, and France line the shelves. Order the Goblet of Fire and watch the bartender torch your glass tableside. The soundtrack is rap and R&B at full volume, no hushed reverence here.
Narrow neighbourhood wine bar on the corner of Hollywood Road and Lok Ku Road, with floor-to-ceiling glass doors that open to the pavement. Regulars spill outside with takeaway bottles on weekends and nobody seems in a rush to leave.
Speakeasy-style cocktail bar on Hollywood Road that feels like a cozy English sitting room, with just 21 seats. British-inspired drinks in a space intimate enough to hear the ice crack.
French-leaning wine bistro with a chalkboard of small-grower bottles and proper bistro food to match. Duck rillettes at the sidewalk barrel tables is the move on a cool evening.
Roman bartender Lorenzo Antinori named this Bridges Street spot after his grandmother's 1970s Café Leon, and it shows in the small details: a Leone Martini poured from the freezer with an almond-stuffed olive, mortadella sandwiches that went near-viral, and a Bellini in a tumbler under whipped cream. Monthly cocktail menu, recipes posted on Google Docs.
Sheung Wan / PoHo's coffee scene runs serious without the swagger: Halfway Coffee pours pour-overs from a Cat Street shoebox, Barista Jam dials in flat whites on Jervois, and commaa keeps things whitewashed and minimalist. Cupping Room handles the roasting credentials, Gwee Coffee does meringue art and fungi-lined walls if you want the opposite of austere.
Whitewashed PoHo space pulling textbook flat whites and minimalist single-origins. Clean lines, zero clutter, and a design sensibility that says as much as what's in the cup.
Cupping Room Coffee Roaster in Sheung Wan is a respected Hong Kong specialty café with barista competition credentials and small-batch in-house roasting across multiple locations.
Chef-turned-barista Tommy Chui serves Okinawa black sugar milk in vintage Hong Kong porcelain cups pulled from the antique stalls right outside on Cat Street. The concrete-walled room sits among curio dealers and fortune tellers, with a small museum of his old cups and stools next door.
Espresso-focused corner spot on Jervois Street where the flat whites are consistently dialed in. A quiet neighbourhood café that doesn't need to shout about what it does well.
Pet-friendly café sharing its space with eyewear brand Khromis, known for meringue art drinks and an Alice-in-Wonderland interior with fungi-shaped furniture. Weird, whimsical, and genuinely fun to sit in.
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Three hotels worth booking in Sheung Wan / PoHo.
Galleries, parks, and independent shops in Sheung Wan / PoHo.