Croix-Rousse The pick
Croix-Rousse won because the hill did the work. Steep streets kept the chains out and the rents sane long enough for a real ecosystem to take root: Rakwé and Odessa Comptoir pouring natural wine, Comptoir Sauvage and Alebrije feeding the block, Le Livre En Pente selling books on a slope, Bohmen and La Maison Cobalte holding down the design end. That density of independents, all within a few minutes on foot, is what the others can't match. Guillotière has more raw energy. Confluence has better architecture. Presqu'île has better bones. Croix-Rousse has the thing you can't commission: a neighborhood that built itself.
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