The Brooklyn
of Lyon is
Croix-Rousse.
Croix-Rousse is the coolest neighborhood in Lyon for the boulevard food market, morning quenelle debates, and walking the real traboules.
Croix-Rousse sits on its own hill above the Saône, a former silk workers' village that still feels like a small town bolted onto a big city. The morning market stretches the full length of the boulevard. Locals argue about quenelles at 11am. The traboules (hidden passageways) are real here, not tourist theater.
Six mornings a week, Croix-Rousse's open-air food market fills Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, and on weekends and Tuesdays 105 stallholders stretch along a full kilometre of the boulevard.
Other cool neighborhoods in Lyon.
Guillotière
Guillotière is Lyon's most international quarter. Pho at 2pm, Eritrean coffee at 4pm, cheap wine at midnight. Rough around the edges and proud of it.
Confluence
Confluence is the shiny new district built on old industrial docks. Contemporary architecture, a massive museum, and restaurants that try hard. Some succeed.
Presqu'île
Presqu'île is the elegant strip between the two rivers. Grand squares, department stores, packed bouchons. All limestone facades and proper lighting, less personality, but the bones are gorgeous.
Where to go in Croix-Rousse.
The hotels on the hill are small, a little idiosyncratic, and close enough to the boulevard market that you can hear it setting up at dawn.
Lyon invented the bouchon, and the ones up here on the hill are where locals actually eat.
The boulevard market runs every morning and takes over the entire ridge of the hill.
Croix-Rousse, corner to corner.
The Croix-Rousse guide.
Good to know.
The boring numbers that decide whether you stay three days or four.
| Currency | EUR |
|---|---|
| Language | French |
| Cost level | $$$Moderate to expensive |
| Best months | May, June and September |
| Local time | UTC+2 |
| Plug type | EU plug · 230V/50Hz |
| Emergency | 112 |
Walk down the Montée de la Grande Côte instead of taking the metro. It's steep, beautiful, and drops you right into Presqu'île.
If you like Lyon, try one of these.
How does Lyon stack up?
Things to know about Croix-Rousse.
What is the Brooklyn of Lyon?
What is the coolest neighborhood in Lyon?
Where should I stay in Croix-Rousse, Lyon?
Is Croix-Rousse in Lyon safe at night?
Is Lyon expensive?
When is the best time to visit Lyon?
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