Gueliz The pick
Gueliz won because it's the only contender that works on foot and works on a weekday. You can get a flat white at HeiBai, cross to the galleries on Rue de Yougoslavie, and end up at Barometre without seeing a taxi. Sidi Ghanem makes better objects but you drive between them. Mouassine has the courtyards but its economy runs on checkout desks. Gueliz has offices, pharmacies, and people who live above the shops. That's the tell. A cool neighborhood needs residents doing normal things around the cool stuff. Norya ayroN, kartell kollektiv., and Some Slowconcept all sit inside a district that would function fine if every tourist left tomorrow.
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