Barrio de Jalatlaco The pick
Jalatlaco wins on density. Within a few blocks you can buy a used novel at Amate Books, drink a pour-over at Once In Oaxaca, then move to agave at El Espacio and end the night at Dantana Rock. No other barrio in the city stacks that much good stuff that close together while people still actually live on the block. The tlayuda vendor on Aldama after 9pm is the tiebreaker, proof the neighborhood feeds itself first and visitors second. Xochimilco is prettier in places. La Noria is cheaper. Reforma is more local. Jalatlaco is the only one that is all three at once, plus walkable from the center.
Read the full case for Barrio de Jalatlaco →