Nakazakicho The pick
Nakazakicho won on timing. Horie finished gentrifying years ago. Nakatsu is still three to five years out. Nakazakicho sits in the middle of the arc, which is exactly where you want to catch a neighborhood. The scene has depth, a gallery like iTohen, a shop like green pepe, coffee worth planning around at Haiku Coffee Roasters, but the streets still belong to the people who live on them. The tell is the closing hours. Cafes shut around 6pm because the neighborhood runs on its own clock, not a tourist's. Then the evening shifts to the bars on Tsuruno-cho. A place that ignores your schedule is a place that still has a spine.
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