Botafogo The pick
Botafogo won because it is still in motion. Santa Teresa settled into its role years ago. Ipanema finished gentrifying and priced out the argument. Lapa empties out by sunrise. Botafogo is the only contender where the interesting things opened recently and the people who go to them also sleep there. You can drink at Quartinho Bar on a Tuesday, buy a book at Blooks Livraria on a Wednesday, and book Lasai for an anniversary, all without leaving the neighborhood or seeing a tour group. Ambition plus actual residents is the rare pairing. Botafogo has it. Nowhere else in Rio does right now.
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